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Friday, November 23, 2007

SRAVANABELGOLA - The tallest Jain monolith!

As a part of Paul's Fulbright program, we were invited to an excellent conference in Udipi/Manipal that gathered 50 or 60 current and former Fulbrighters. Instead of flying (1 hour), we chose to take the looong scenic route by bus...

Our first stop was the quiet pilgrimage site of Sravanabelgola with it's many temples, mutts (monasteries), and 2 hilltop shrines. The highlight is the 60 foot high statue of Gomateshwara, standing on the granite hilltop and gazing off to the north. It is an awesome and stunning monument, brought alive by the steady stream of chanting singing pilgrims swirling through the complex. Prayers are said, offerings made, water and ghee and oils and rice are sprinkled and pours on Gomateshwara's massive granite feet. I am still incredulous as to how they raised this gigantic statue, carved from a single rock! It is claimed that this is the tallest free-standing monolithic statue in all of India...

The town itself is very peaceful and focused on prayer and pilgrimage... after our loud busy days in Bangalore traffic, and a 3 hour bus ride, this place felt very relaxing. We enjoyed our sunset on the top of the big hill (Indragiri), and then rose the next morning at 5am to catch the sunrise on the smaller hill (Chandragiri). Our sunrise didn't really happen, as we encountered heavy mist and swirling clouds, all of which added to the beautiful atmosphere of the sacred place.

The countryside is pretty idyllic, with rice paddies, coconut palms, canals and lakes, abundant birdlife, waterbuffaloes, and strange granite boulders cropping up here and there... It would be a fabulous area to zip around on a motorcycle someday!

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Hopping around Hampi

Just got back from a wonderful trip to Hampi. This is the small dusty riverside town set amidst the sprawling ruins of the old kingdom of Vijayanagar. There are literally thousands of ruins, arches, temples, towers, and stone pillars scattered over many square miles of rolling hills and golden granite boulders. It is so reminiscent of the Joshua Tree landscape... except with palm trees, banana plantations, and monkeys everywhere. An amazing place to wander, as there are surprises at every turn. We LOVED climbing hills for sunrise and sunset views... Another highlight was toodling around on scooters to visit the more distant ruins. Our friend Marya has arrived now, and will stay with us for a month or two. It was great having her along, as we were able to properly cram 3 people on each scooter. Buzzing joyfully down country roads, the girls giggled and laughed and begged me to buy a motorcycle when we return to California!

More details to come, but here are some more quick photo posts.....

Saturday, November 10, 2007

Eating in India!!!

Some of our favorite things to eat in India are poori, idlis, vada, dosas, plain dosas, masala dosas, rice, curry, and the "meals" thing that gives you lots of little bowls of sauces with your rice and chapatti.
I'd have to say I love to eat pretty much everything in India. I really like dipping things in sambar, which is a red spicy sauce that is deeeelicious! Sometimes the sambar, or other foods, are too spicy for me to eat, so we have to remember to ask them to not give us the red chili paste. Mom and Dad sometimes ask for extra chili paste!
That big long dosa is called "paper dosa," and it's about 3 feet long! It was Sylvie and Lupin's favorite thing for a long time, but now Sylvie likes idlis better, and Lupin usually gets plain dosas. Dad usually had to finish their paper dosa. Sometimes he gets his own, and he can finish it all. Idlis are those small round white things, and are made of steamed rice. Lots of people eat them for breakfast. Then there's that big round fried thing that I'm holding. That's an extra big poori that's pretty greasy. You dip it in sauces.
-- posted by Eliza

Ahhhh yes... the "meals thing." Almost anywhere you go in South India, especially mid-day, you can pop into a restaurant for "meals." That usually means an all-you-can-eat mountain of rice on a banana leaf, encircled by many tiny bowls or piles of luscious curries, chutneys, yogurts, and sweets... Sometimes it comes on a huge silver platter, with the tiny bowls wrapped around the rim... You wash up, dig in with your right hand, and mix in whatever taste combinations appeal to you. Just when you are making some progress, the waiter will cruise by with a triple-bucket on a handle, and ladle you more of everything. There are also places that offer "mini-meals" for those who have a bit less stomach capacity. Today Eliza got "mini meals" from Sri Shanti Sagar (a favorite local place), and was excited to show off her wrinkled fingers after the meal. "Hey Dad, look at this! My fingers are like when we sit in a hot tub for too long!"
Extended immersion in warm liquids will do that....

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Bangalore Birding Bonanza!

Amazing Bird Photos (by my Bangalore naturalist friends)

If you want an idea about birding in a city of 8 million, these links are for you! I am not a photographer, but I like to travel in flocks of them… Check out the BIRD LIST LINK in the left column for more Birdy Info!!!

For example, check out these incredible Green Bee-eaters, (Merops orientalis) from yesterday at Sankey Tank (our local "lake"). -->

...photo by K.Uma


Red-whiskered Bulbul in the Rain (video) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNn2MjMmQi8

Cormorant at Sankey Tank (video) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zx2Q_-SkKZ0

Large Pied Wagtail Singing in the City http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNlD9UgodSo

Sunbird Takeoff! http://www.indianaturewatch.net/displayimage.php?id=27489

Red-vented Bulbul http://www.indianaturewatch.net/displayimage.php?id=27490

Asian Paradise Flycatcher http://www.indianaturewatch.net/images/album/photo/159295363447175a312e82e.jpg

Cool Moth http://www.indianaturewatch.net/displayimage.php?id=27320

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Elephants Galore! Mudumalai National Park and Mysore Dasara Parade

Sylvie shares... In the jungle, I DID see wild elephants! I even rode them in the jungle National Park for about a half hour. there was a special stairs that you climb up on them, and then step off the edge up on to the elephant. You sit in like a pad, sort of like a square donut for the elephants backbone, and on top of that is a floor with short walls out of metal bars. Sort of like a railing. You sit there and hang your feet off the edge. The driver sits on the elephants neck, and puts his feet on the elephant's ear and pushes one the left or right ear to steer the elephant.

After the jungle place, we went to Mysore. That's a big town with a huuuge palace for the mararjah. He doesn't live there anymore. We went there to see the big parade for the Dasara Festival. We had to go real early to get a seat on some stone stairs by the side of the road. Daddy bought grass mats to sit on, and also snacks to eat and cool drinks. It was pretty hot waiting in the sun. We had to sit for five hours, and after one or two hours is was SO crowded. People were walking on our grass mats to get by, and people across the street were sitting, standing, laying down... Lots of people were up in a tree, on a roof, and lots of people were standing in the back of trucks.

At the parade, the first thing we saw was a mommy dog with big nipples running back and forth on the street. Everyone cheered when it went by, because we were all waiting for sooooo long for the parade to start. When the real parade came, the first thing was 2 big flags with a bunch of men to lift it up.

After that came the big decorated elephants. They even had cloth over there back, and they had painted decorations on their faces, legs, butts, tails, and everywhere! There was a colorful seat on their back, and also big red umbrellas on tall sticks. The person sitting on the back had to hold the umbrella so it wouldn't fall, and the other guy was sitting on the elephant's neck steering it...

There were also drummers, dancers and acrobats, and big "float things" on trucks that went by. Not the sitting part, but the parade part, lasted for about 2 hours. It was pretty cool. It was worth it to sit all that hot time waiting for it to start. There was also a guy dressed up like a demon monster, and he was drinking gasoline and spitting out fire!

The last big thing were the best elephants, and the biggest one had a golden thing on it's back. It's called a "howdah", and that's the throne thing that the kind used to sit in when he wanted to go out riding his elephants. Now he's not really the maharaja anymore, so they put a statue of Chaumundi in the howdah instead. She's a goddess that's important for this holiday festival. Daddy's gonna tell more about that stuff later... So that's what we saw with elephants in the parade and jungle.
.............-by Sylvie
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Now it's Eliza's turn --
We just were on a 10 day vacation! -- First we went on a sleeper car,and in the middle of the night we got off the train at a place called Salem Junction. It was very stinky because people pee'd on the track! We called it Stinky Junction. We were so tired, and we had to sit in metal chairs until the next train came at 2:00am. Finally we got on the train, slept in bunk beds, and got to a place near Oooty.

Oooty is a cold place up in the mountains where they grow tea and coffee. To get there we rode on a slow steam train up the mountains. The train was about 150 years old, and the engine looked a lot like the one parked in El Portal! Finally we got to Oooty, and stayed at a guest house with a fireplace. We played "bird nest" in the nice beds (while dad was trying to nap!). We visited a small amusement called Jolly World that Lupin LOVED.... At Jolly World the best things were the bouncy Titanic ship slide, and also the big "boat swing" that went SO high up! Sylvie made a fish face on it, and held on sooo tight!

Next day we took a bus, but it was too crowded. Right when it came, everyone was throwing their suitcases into open windows to save a seat. So my Dad and Mom threw ME into a window too! My sisters also got pushed in through a window, and sat in a row behind me. This whole time Dad was trying to push his way on... he couldn't fit through the window! Then everyone was crowding on, and a guy almost sat on ME. My dad argued with him, then I switched to sit on my Mom's lap. During the ride a lady pretty much was sitting on me and my Mom's lap. She was stinky, but it was OK....

That bus got us to a jungle national park called Mudumalai, where we stayed for 3 days. In the night, out the window, we saw herds of spotted deer. They stayed each night by the lights of the hotel, so they would be safer from Tigers and Leopards! By our hotel there were SO many monkeys. It was so cute because the little babies would cling to their Mom's chest while she ran and climbed. Once, a guy came up by our hotel room, and started feeding corn to the monkeys. That made all of them stay around our room, and sometimes a monkey would try to come INSIDE our hotel room! My mom had to hit one once with a book to chase it back outside! One sat on our windowsill, and kept reaching in to try to get food, so Sylvie and I would run into the bathroom. We were scared they would bite us, and we'd then have to get 5 rabies shots.

The animals we saw there were: one leopard, one mongoose, many herds of wild forest elephants, lots of herds of spotted deer, a few herds of wild bison, SOOO many monkeys, real wild peacocks pea-hens and pea-chicks, some wild boar, and so many colorful birds like blue-tailed parrots, green parakeets, blue rollers, blue kingfishers, and others. Mom made a list of about the 50 different kinds of birds we saw.

Most days we took at least one Jeep ride through the jungle. We didn't have any seatbelts, and we got to stand up and look out of the roof bars! That way we could spot wild animals better. Once we also took a half-hour elephant ride, and mostly saw birds.

There was also an elephant camp, where they feed the riding elephants and take care of sick ones. They also had an orphaned baby elephant that would always stick it's trunk through the window. Once it almost shook my hand with it's trunk! It was SO cute! It's trunk was a little wet and ticklish.

Then we drove to Mysore to see the famous royal palace parade. There were elephants dressed up in costumes, one special elephant with a golden howdah (throne) on it, and a guy that spit out fire. there were lots of acrobats, musicians, drummers, and dancers. It was the best parade I ever saw, but the one sad thing was they showed how silk was made on one float. They get the silkworms, then put the coccoons in boiling water. It kills the little silkies, and then they unravel the silk cocoon thread. Isnt' that sad?

Now we took a bus back to Bangalore. Today we went to a park with some new friends from New Hampshire. There was a huge flying boat ride, a peacock train, and a merry go round too. They just left for an overnight train ride back to Hyderabad (where they live), but it was fun having them here. They had a boy who is Lupin's age, so they ran around a lot screaming together!
...........by Eliza

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Unit Tests at KVMEG

The last 2 weeks have been busy and exhausting for Paul... That's why we've had a huge gap in blogging entries! Many many exams to grade, and this has taken up most of his time. Just for fun, Sylvie also got a major viral fever, and shared it with tired Daddy who stays up too late each night grading papers... So we've had illness to deal with too. More later on EXAMS in India....

The Princess's Riding School

2 weeks ago we started taking private horse-riding lessons at the Princess Acadamy Riding School. It was really fun, because I got to "trot" on the first day! We bought our own riding helmets, and now, every Saturday after school, we change into jeans, get into a rickshaw, and drive to the "Palace Grounds." It's on the palace grounds, because all of the horses are owned by the Princess of Mysore who actually lives in Bangalore, not Mysore. We haven't met her, but I hope I do someday. Each Saturday we also get to see two other girls, Darcy and Sylvie, who are also taking lessons. It pretty cool that Darcy is my age, and Sylvie is about Sylvie's age.... Also, how many Sylvies have we ever met? None... but here's one in Bangalore! They are from Holland, the UK and Canada... sort of. They move around alot.

All of my horse instructors are very nice. The main guy is named Munawar, and another nice teacher is Bobbin who is from Darjeeling. When I ride the instructors show me how to push "up-down-up-down," which is called posting... I think.... I also have to work on keeping my back straight, holding the reins a different way than in America. We are riding on English saddles, which feels a little more "out and loose" so you have to balance better. Western saddles "hold you on" more, and are a little easier. Also the saddles here do not have a horn, so you just need to hold the reins and balance.

My instructor holds my horse on a lead rope, and I trot around him in circles. Sometimes I go faster or slower, and even "canter" for a little bit. When that happens, I feel really excited! But I also feel a bit tired, when I'm posting for so long. Soon I'm hoping to do what Darcy does, which is to trot without a lead rope, anywhere she wants in the corral. She's been riding for much longer than me.

Some of the horses are a special kind called a Marwari Horse. They have ears that curl in at the tips. We feel pretty lucky to ride them, because they only live in certain parts of India, and are a pretty rare type. If you are interested, here are a few links about Marwari Horses (#1, #2, #3) from Adonia and Uncle Kook.

I get to ride for about 30 minutes each time, and I REALLY love it!!! This is one of the things that I'll probably miss the most when I go home to El Portal.

-by Eliza